Anyone who's ever been to Italy discovers almost instantly that Italians are crazy about espresso. It's found everywhere--tiny country inns, bars, homes, train station vending machines, continental breakfast bars at hotels--seriously folks, it's EVERYWHERE. I've even enjoyed a shot or two when gassing up; Italians take their espresso drinking so seriously that even the stuff at gas stations is worth drinking.
But foreign travelers be warned--the first sidewalk cafe one encounters upon exiting the train station is going to rip you off big time. In Pisa, we needed to take a minute to orient ourselves to where we were at and how we would get to our hotel. With suitcases rolling behind us, we stopped at a somewhat hip-looking cafe, plopped ourselves down, and ordered two espressos. That's it. Our bill? About 7 euros (roughly $10). Of course in Italy, you aren't supposed to tip your server, so maybe that doesn't seem so outrageous. But walk one block over and duck inside a tiny local caffe (what the Italians call an espresso bar that sells pastries) and you're paying .9 euros for the same delicious shot of espresso that you paid 3.5 euros for at the tourist trap. This time, you may consider leaving your change, so that your espresso actually ends up costing you a whopping $1.50.
At this point, it's important to note the distinction between American and Italian espresso, as well as that between a caffe and a coffee shop. Order an espresso in Italy, and you will get a tiny little cup containing about an inch of chocolate-brown gold. You don't have the option of ordering a coffee, unless you ask specifically for an Americano. In fact, if you ask for a coffee, you will be served an espresso. These places are nothing like Starbucks, so don't even think about ordering any sort of fru-fru drink. Order a macchiatto, and you will find yourself drinking a shot of espresso topped with a dollop of milk foam served in the same tiny cup. You will absolutely not get a 16 oz. wet cappuccino drowning in caramel syrup. Espresso is always served with a packet of sugar and a spoon. You will very likely stand at the bar (there are no bar stools) while drinking your shot, and your barista will stand close by, as if he's waiting for you to order another. Then you leave. No lengthy stays, web-surfing, etc. You will repeat this several times throughout the day if you are like me and can't get enough of this experience.
Try ordering espresso in the U.S. The stuff found here is both more bitter and weaker. Upon returning to the States, I ordered an espresso from my favorite local coffee shop in hopes of recapturing my experience in Italy. I never realized how badly Americans butcher espresso (and prior to my trip, I loved this butchered espresso!) until the barista handed me about 6 oz. of intensely strong coffee with zero crema. For the record, a properly pulled shot is between 1 and 1.5 oz., and contains a beautifully rich "tiger striped" crema. Argh. Couldn't drink it. Order an espresso from Starbucks and the quality is better, but it still lacks the quality of an Italian espresso--too bitter, too big, not enough good crema. *Sigh*
The espresso found in Italian homes is quite different and maybe somewhat familiar to Americans. Italians all seem to have multiple aluminum moka pots--like cheap Bialettis--in various sizes. Drinking this espresso is like drinking mud. It's honest, and in some ways it's good, but it's so radically different from the stuff found in caffes that it's in its own category. I'd rather drink this stuff any day than a poorly pulled shot of espresso, because it at least tastes like Italy. And with home-brewed espresso, you can pour yourself a tiny shot or a huge mug--it all depends on the size of your moka pot and how many people you're serving.
A final note: after salivating over Italian prosumer espresso machines ever since our return from Italy, my husband and I finally took the leap and bought a Rancilio Silvia, which differs from most espresso machines sold to Americans in that there are no bells and whistles to accommodate user error (such as the thingy in the portafilter that produces crema in a badly constructed pull). Finally! Italian espresso in the States...
Ciao!
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